Finding the right suit can be both challenging and time consuming. Below we’ve focused on three major elements that separate one suit from another: Construction, Fabric, and Fit.
Construction
There are two methods of constructing a suit jacket. The first is called a canvas construction. Better suits use this kind of tailoring – a layer of canvas sewn into the jacket between the exterior cloth and lining that gives it shape, structure, and strength – shaping the suit from the start, and also having a memory for your shape. The second, fused construction, consists of the interlining adhering to the exterior fabric through a heating process – it is essentially glued.
Fabric
While suits can come in many different fabrications, most are made of wool. Wools are weighted for the season. Generally, tropical weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 180-220) are worn in the warm weather months of Spring and Summer, mid weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 220-250) can be worn all year long, and wools greater than 250grams are heavier and best for the colder winter months. Flannel finishes afford a softly brushed, almost matte appearance, and are often associated with “Country Gentleman” style. We pride ourselves in scouring the globe to find the best quality wools, sourcing them at prices that allow us to pass the value on to you.
Fit
Most importantly, make sure your suit fits. Trousers should be hemmed to just hit your shoes. Too long can create a sloppy, lazy presentation; too little, and you are apt to be asked where the flood is. Jacket sleeve length should allow for about a quarter to a half an inch of shirt cuff to be seen. As a rule of thumb, jacket buttons should never pucker or crease when buttoned. If so, please go up a size. The bottom hem should align with your knuckles and be just enough to cover your back side.
Choosing a collar style that befits you is an important aspect of your dress shirt selection. There are four basic types with multiple variations of each: straight, spread, tab and buttondown. While selecting your collar style is largely a matter of personal taste, there are a few things you should consider.
Straight collars are generally considered a conservative choice and at Paul Fredrick we offer a traditional (stitched at ¼” from edge of collar), European (edge-stitched) for a more European aesthetic, and the eyelet (available this fall). The eyelet collar is a classic style gaining in popularity today, facilitating the polished finish of a collar pin. Any of our straight collar styles tend to complement almost any facial structure, especially those with a rounder face, by elongating the jaw line providing a more balanced look.
Spread collars are cut at a sharper angle and with shorter collar points, leaving more fabric showing at the top of the shirt placket. Our Windsor spread collar has a straight edge, while the varsity spread is cut with a slight curve for a sportier appeal. If you face is thinner/longer, a spread collar serves to better balance out these physical features and not accentuate the length of your face.
Tab collars resemble straight collars in cut, but the sides of the collar are held together by two small pieces of fabric, each with one side of a snap tab or a button. When attached, the points of the collar lie flat on the body of the shirt affording a neat and precise presentation.
The buttondown collar, long an American icon, is hugely popular, likely for its almost limitless versatility. With or without a tie, it’s appropriate for a wide variety of business and casual settings.
Dressing Guidelines, How to, Rules
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buttondown, collar styles, collars, dress shirt collars, eyelet collar, how to pick a dress shirt collar, Selecting the right collar, spread, tab
We all have features that flatter us less than we would like. Some of us struggle with our weight. Here are some tips from our buyers on “dressing slimmer.”
- Although this sounds obvious, make sure you wear clothes that fit well. Both clothes that are too tight and those that are too loose make you look heavier than you really are. If you can’t find that perfect fit, buy larger and have a tailor alter the items to fit you perfectly (by the way, a good tailor is worth his/her weight in gold).
- Dark colors are typically more slimming than bright ones. A great fitting dark suit is the perfect item for the man looking to dress slimmer (with or without a tie). Avoid outfits where contrasting colors meet at the feature you are trying to de-emphasize. Even if monochrome is not for you, a pair of charcoal trousers with a black shirt or knit will do the trick.
- Avoid bold patterns, which always make you look bigger than you are. Pinstripes, on the other hand, are always slimming.
- A three button single breasted blazer or suit coat will help elongate your look. A ventless jacket works best if your posterior is not your best feature.
- Wear pleated, rather than flat front trousers. Flat fronts draw unwanted attention to the mid-section. Also, make certain that your trousers aren’t too short. Tell your tailor to err on the long side if necessary.
- If you possess a round face, wear dress shirts with long, straight collars, which will de-emphasize that feature.
- V-neck sweaters and shirts draw attention away from the mid-section.
- Avoid bulky fabrics whenever possible. Dark colors and light fabrics is a good rule of thumb if you are trying to dress slimmer.
- If you want to brighten up your look, add some color with a tie or pocket square.
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