Finding the right suit can be both challenging and time consuming. Below we’ve focused on three major elements that separate one suit from another: Construction, Fabric, and Fit.
There are two methods of constructing a suit jacket. The first is called a canvas construction. Better suits use this kind of tailoring – a layer of canvas sewn into the jacket between the exterior cloth and lining that gives it shape, structure, and strength – shaping the suit from the start, and also having a memory for your shape. The second, fused construction, consists of the interlining adhering to the exterior fabric through a heating process – it is essentially glued.
While suits can come in many different fabrications, most are made of wool. Wools are weighted for the season. Generally, tropical weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 180-220) are worn in the warm weather months of Spring and Summer, mid weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 220-250) can be worn all year long, and wools greater than 250grams are heavier and best for the colder winter months. Flannel finishes afford a softly brushed, almost matte appearance, and are often associated with “Country Gentleman” style. We pride ourselves in scouring the globe to find the best quality wools, sourcing them at prices that allow us to pass the value on to you.
Most importantly, make sure your suit fits. Trousers should be hemmed to just hit your shoes. Too long can create a sloppy, lazy presentation; too little, and you are apt to be asked where the flood is. Jacket sleeve length should allow for about a quarter to a half an inch of shirt cuff to be seen. As a rule of thumb, jacket buttons should never pucker or crease when buttoned. If so, please go up a size. The bottom hem should align with your knuckles and be just enough to cover your back side.