Apart from fit (more details on that here), collar style is a major factor you must consider when choosing a dress shirt. One thing to take into account is your face shape – is it thin or broad, long or short? Certain collar styles will either emphasize or help to balance out those qualities, so choose wisely! Another aspect to think about is how casual or formal you intend to dress, and whether or not you’re going to wear a tie (plus, which tie knots will look best). Here’s a quick summary of the ‘rules’ you should follow when choosing your collar type.

Spread Collar

  • Has wider collar points and is angled out
  • Allows more room for a properly knotted tie
  • Can make the wearers face appear wider

Classic, Sartorial, Formal

All business, the middle ground Windsor spread is a classic, A wider cutaway spread is trendy fare.

Variations: Park Avenue, Varsity, Windsor, English, Cutaway, Jermyn Street.

 

Straight Collar

  • Has a longer point and is angled down
  • Perfect for medium to small tie knots
  • Visual slimming effect on the face

Traditional, Versatile, Sensible

Very day all occasion wear. Considered the most traditional collar style available today.

Variations: Eyelet

 

Button Down Collar

  • Buttons hold the collar down
  • Historically casual, but works with a tie
  • Good for framing any face shape

Academic, Relaxed, All-American

Less formal collar style. Great option for work days or casual play dates.

Variations: Button Down Spread, Hidden Button

 

Tab Collar

  • Buttons or snaps to lay collar flat and prop tie
  • Always worn with a tie, smaller knots are best
  • Helps to hide a longer neck

Precise, Serious, Conservative

Work oriented, great for serious business days when in need of a formal look.

Variations: Button Tab, Snap Tab

 

Club Collar

  • Has rounded ends of short collar points
  • Tied up with a smaller knot, it’s a dandy choice
  • Works well with a narrower face

Old-School, British, Distinctive

Most popular collar style in the 1930’s, the club collar works well for semi-formal events or an elegant night out.

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