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By Benn, June 23, 2010 3:00 am

Finding the right suit can be both challenging and time consuming. Below we’ve focused on three major elements that separate one suit from another: Construction, Fabric, and Fit.
 
Construction
There are two methods of constructing a suit jacket. The first is called a canvas construction. Better suits use this kind of tailoring – a layer of canvas sewn into the jacket between the exterior cloth and lining that gives it shape, structure, and strength – shaping the suit from the start, and also having a memory for your shape. The second, fused construction, consists of the interlining adhering to the exterior fabric through a heating process – it is essentially glued.
 
Fabric
While suits can come in many different fabrications, most are made of wool.  Wools are weighted for the season. Generally, tropical weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 180-220) are worn in the warm weather months of Spring and Summer, mid weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 220-250) can be worn all year long, and wools greater than 250grams are heavier and best for the colder winter months.  Flannel finishes afford a softly brushed, almost matte appearance, and are often associated with  “Country Gentleman”  style.  We pride ourselves in scouring the globe to find the best quality wools, sourcing them at prices that allow us to pass the value on to you.
 
Fit
Most importantly, make sure your suit fits. Trousers should be hemmed to just hit your shoes. Too long can create a sloppy, lazy presentation; too little, and you are apt to be asked where the flood is. Jacket sleeve length should allow for about a quarter to a half an inch of shirt cuff to be seen. As a rule of thumb, jacket buttons should never pucker or crease when buttoned. If so, please go up a size. The bottom hem should align with your knuckles and be just enough to cover your back side.

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By Benn, June 15, 2010 3:00 am

Choosing a collar style that befits you is an important aspect of your dress shirt selection. There are four basic types with multiple variations of each: straight, spread, tab and buttondown. While selecting your collar style is largely a matter of personal taste, there are a few things you should consider.
 
Straight collars are generally considered a conservative choice and at Paul Fredrick we offer a traditional (stitched at ¼” from edge of collar), European (edge-stitched) for a more European aesthetic, and the eyelet (available this fall). The eyelet collar is a classic style gaining in popularity today, facilitating the polished finish of a collar pin. Any of our straight collar styles tend to complement almost any facial structure, especially those with a rounder face, by elongating the jaw line providing a more balanced look.
 
Spread collars are cut at a sharper angle and with shorter collar points, leaving more fabric showing at the top of the shirt placket. Our Windsor spread collar has a straight edge, while the varsity spread is cut with a slight curve for a sportier appeal. If you face is thinner/longer, a spread collar serves to better balance out these physical features and not accentuate the length of your face.

Tab collars  resemble straight collars in cut, but the sides of the collar are held together by two small pieces of fabric, each with one side of a snap tab or a button. When attached, the points of the collar lie flat on the body of the shirt affording a neat and precise presentation.

The buttondown collar, long an American icon, is hugely popular, likely for its almost limitless versatility. With or without a tie, it’s appropriate for a wide variety of business and casual settings.

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By Allen, June 9, 2010 3:00 am

We all have features that flatter us less than we would like.  Some of us struggle with our weight.  Here are some tips from our buyers on “dressing slimmer.”

• Although this sounds obvious, make sure you wear clothes that fit well.  Both clothes that are too tight and those that are too loose make you look heavier than you really are.  If you can’t find that perfect fit, buy larger and have a tailor alter the items to fit you perfectly (by the way, a good tailor is worth his/her weight in gold).
• Dark colors are typically more slimming than bright ones.  A great fitting dark suit is the perfect item for the man looking to dress slimmer (with or without a tie).  Avoid outfits where contrasting colors meet at the feature you are trying to de-emphasize.  Even if monochrome is not for you, a pair of charcoal trousers with a black shirt or knit will do the trick. 
• Avoid bold patterns, which always make you look bigger than you are.  Pinstripes, on the other hand, are always slimming.
• A three button single breasted blazer or suit coat will help elongate your look.  A ventless jacket works best if your posterior is not your best feature.
• Wear pleated, rather than flat front trousers.  Flat fronts draw unwanted attention to the mid-section.  Also, make certain that your trousers aren’t too short.  Tell your tailor to err on the long side if necessary.
• If you possess a round face, wear dress shirts with long, straight collars, which will de-emphasize that feature.
• V-neck sweaters and shirts draw attention away from the mid-section.
• Avoid bulky fabrics whenever possible.  Dark colors and light fabrics is a good rule of thumb if you are trying to dress slimmer.
• If you want to brighten up your look, add some color with a tie or pocket square.

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By Benn, May 25, 2010 3:00 am

“Business Casual” sounds like such a simple concept, but the reality is that both employers and employees struggle mightily with dressing in a business casual environment.  Here are ten tips from the Paul Fredrick buying team on putting together a wardrobe for the business casual workplace:

1)      Always keep in mind that “business casual” and “golf” are two separate concepts.  Leave the golf wear in the clubhouse.

2)      You cannot go wrong with wool trousers at the office. From tropical weight wool in the summer, to flannel in the winter, to gabardines in between, wool is the perfect fabric for trousers in the workplace.

3)      When it gets really warm, try linen or silk trousers.  Both are dressy enough for the office and will keep you cool to boot.

4)      The best part of business casual is the large number of shirt options.  Wear a favorite dress shirt (with or without a tie), a sport shirt for a more colorful look, or a knit sweater when it is very cold (long sleeve merino wool) or very hot (short sleeve spun silk).

5)      Invest in a couple sport coats – they are very versatile.  Choose one in the black/grey family and one in shades of tan/brown.  Add a navy blazer and you are set for any occasion.  Like trousers, sport coats are available in a variety of wool weights appropriate for all types of weather. 

6)      Sweaters and vests are both great business casual layering pieces, great for spring and fall when temperatures may vary greatly during the day.

7)      Make sure your shoes are in synch with the rest of your outfit.  Leave the topsiders and tennis shoes at the country club.

8)      Solid trousers provide the most versatility in any business casual wardrobe.  Pair them with patterned dress shirts or sport shirts to make your color statement.

9)      One exception to the above – buy a pair of patterned trousers that you absolutely must have, and match it with a solid knit shirt.

10)   Finally, don’t be shy about dressing up sometimes, even in a business casual environment.  There is nothing wrong with being the best dressed guy in the place!

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By Benn, May 18, 2010 3:00 am

Every business trip poses a series of challenges. This article will focus on one dilemma that is a part of every business trip – packing. In order to determine what to pack, check the weather forecast for your destination and determine what amenities your hotel(s) will provide.

Before you do any actual packing, we strongly suggest a list. Take into consideration the length of your trip, the business attire needed, the amount of free time available for non-business activities and personal preferences for recreational items and sleep wear. Once a list is made, select an area where you can lay out what will be packed, and check them off your list.

Keep in mind the following with regards to the business wear items. Shoes are heavy, so try to minimize the number of shoes you bring. Select suits or trousers that require only one shoe color. Additionally, comfortable shoes that can be dressed up or down, you will further reduce your shoe requirements.

Likewise, clothing that can be worn for both business and casual activities will help keep your packing requirements to a minimum. If your agenda requires business casual clothing, wool trousers and fine gauge knits such as mock turtlenecks and polos are quite versatile. If a shirt and tie is required for your business meetings, select a few buttondown collar woven shirts. These shirts can also be worn as casual items for leisure activities. Non-Iron dress shirts and performance blazers are particularly appropriate for business travel. Bring two neckties for each shirt packed, since ties are lightweight and can vary your look from meeting to meeting.

Make certain, before packing, that all clothing is clean and pressed. Unless you are utilizing a garment bag, we suggest that all items be packed folded and tightly rolled. Alternatively, folded dress shirts may be packed in the packaging used by your laundry service. Fold and roll all your garments before selecting a suitcase. Once you have done so, choose a suitcase that will be tightly packed when you are finished. The less room items have to move around, the less likely they are to wrinkle in transit. Invest in a travel steamer. This inexpensive item can prove to be extremely valuable if the need arises to remove wrinkles. We also strongly recommend that all toiletries be sealed in plastic bags or a waterproof carrying case before they are packed.

Whether or not you check your bags, always pack a carry-on piece with essential items, in case your luggage is temporarily misplaced. At a minimum, include underwear, socks and a clean shirt. Additionally, make certain that you have identification tags on all of your bags, including carry-on pieces. Once you arrive at the hotel, take the time to properly unpack and store all garments in dressers or closets.

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By Benn, May 4, 2010 7:38 am

100% cotton is the generally accepted dress shirt fabric of choice. Period.

If you are not an ironer, and don’t wish to incur the expense of professional laundering, “non-iron” dress shirts are available in a diverse range of styles. These shirts are treated with a patented formula which allows them to remain virtually wrinkle free while wearing. Care is simple. They can be washed and dried at home without the need for an iron.

There are a wide range of quality cotton choices out there today. The lower the number in front, the less luxurious the cotton. Thus, the less expensive. Two-ply indicates two fibers of cotton twisted together. It makes for a more durable shirt and all of the fabrics we mention below are two-ply.

200’s broadcloth is our finest, most luxurious yarn and arguably the finest shirting fabric in the world. Decadently soft and elegantly lustrous, in white, it can be too sheer for some. But warning, once you’ve worn a 200’s shirt, it is very difficult to trade down. It is addictive.

140’s broadcloth is also considered a luxury shirt. Identical to the thread count in an olde world Sea Island cotton dress shirt, it has a silky-soft hand and rich luster which translates into remarkable comfort and brilliant pattern definition.

Our premium cotton, Imperial 100’s, is probably the most comparable to the majority of dress shirts found at our competitors. Still very soft and durable, it is an incredible deal when you compare it to what you pay for the same fabric elsewhere.

80’s pinpoint oxford has a more pronounced weave than broadcloth fabric, thus a slightly less dressy appearance making it somewhat more versatile. Quintessentially American, it is perhaps our most popular fabric, specifically in the button-down collar model.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 1:38 pm

The Four-in-Hand is considered the most versatile tie knot.  Acceptable when used with any type collar, but best suited for a straight, tab or buttondown.

Use the simple instructions below to tie a Four-in-Hand knot.

Step One: Start with the wide end of the tie on your right, extended about 12 inches below narrow end.	Step Two: Cross the wide end over the narrow, then again under the narrow.	Step Three: Continue around, passing the wide end across in front of the narrow once more.
Step Four: Pass the wide end under the knot and up through the loop between the knot and your neck.	Step Five: Hold the front of the knot open slightly with your index finger to create a loop in the knot. Pass the wide end down through the knot in the loop that you’ve just created in front.	Step Six: Remove your finger and tighten the knot carefully. Draw the knot tight by holding the narrow end of the tie and sliding the knot up snug to your collar.

Other Knots:
Click here for Windsor.
Click here for Half Windsor.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 1:38 pm

The Windsor is a big and chunky tie knot. Larger than the Half Windsor. Best when used with a wide spread collar shirt, perfect for a Windsor Spread or English Spread collar.

Use the simple instructions below to tie a Windsor knot.

(when looking in a mirror)

Other Knots:
Click here for Half Windsor.
Click here for Four-in-Hand.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 1:37 pm

The Half Windsor is a solid, balanced tie knot. Slightly smaller than the Windsor. Best when used with a spread collar shirt, perfect for a Windsor Spread or Park Avenue Spread collar.

Use the simple instructions below to tie a Half Windsor knot.

(when looking in a mirror)

Other Knots:
Click here for Windsor.
Click here for Four-in-Hand.