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By Benn, June 23, 2010 3:00 am

Finding the right suit can be both challenging and time consuming. Below we’ve focused on three major elements that separate one suit from another: Construction, Fabric, and Fit.
 
Construction
There are two methods of constructing a suit jacket. The first is called a canvas construction. Better suits use this kind of tailoring – a layer of canvas sewn into the jacket between the exterior cloth and lining that gives it shape, structure, and strength – shaping the suit from the start, and also having a memory for your shape. The second, fused construction, consists of the interlining adhering to the exterior fabric through a heating process – it is essentially glued.
 
Fabric
While suits can come in many different fabrications, most are made of wool.  Wools are weighted for the season. Generally, tropical weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 180-220) are worn in the warm weather months of Spring and Summer, mid weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 220-250) can be worn all year long, and wools greater than 250grams are heavier and best for the colder winter months.  Flannel finishes afford a softly brushed, almost matte appearance, and are often associated with  “Country Gentleman”  style.  We pride ourselves in scouring the globe to find the best quality wools, sourcing them at prices that allow us to pass the value on to you.
 
Fit
Most importantly, make sure your suit fits. Trousers should be hemmed to just hit your shoes. Too long can create a sloppy, lazy presentation; too little, and you are apt to be asked where the flood is. Jacket sleeve length should allow for about a quarter to a half an inch of shirt cuff to be seen. As a rule of thumb, jacket buttons should never pucker or crease when buttoned. If so, please go up a size. The bottom hem should align with your knuckles and be just enough to cover your back side.

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By Benn, June 15, 2010 3:00 am

Choosing a collar style that befits you is an important aspect of your dress shirt selection. There are four basic types with multiple variations of each: straight, spread, tab and buttondown. While selecting your collar style is largely a matter of personal taste, there are a few things you should consider.
 
Straight collars are generally considered a conservative choice and at Paul Fredrick we offer a traditional (stitched at ¼” from edge of collar), European (edge-stitched) for a more European aesthetic, and the eyelet (available this fall). The eyelet collar is a classic style gaining in popularity today, facilitating the polished finish of a collar pin. Any of our straight collar styles tend to complement almost any facial structure, especially those with a rounder face, by elongating the jaw line providing a more balanced look.
 
Spread collars are cut at a sharper angle and with shorter collar points, leaving more fabric showing at the top of the shirt placket. Our Windsor spread collar has a straight edge, while the varsity spread is cut with a slight curve for a sportier appeal. If you face is thinner/longer, a spread collar serves to better balance out these physical features and not accentuate the length of your face.

Tab collars  resemble straight collars in cut, but the sides of the collar are held together by two small pieces of fabric, each with one side of a snap tab or a button. When attached, the points of the collar lie flat on the body of the shirt affording a neat and precise presentation.

The buttondown collar, long an American icon, is hugely popular, likely for its almost limitless versatility. With or without a tie, it’s appropriate for a wide variety of business and casual settings.

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By Allen, June 9, 2010 3:00 am

We all have features that flatter us less than we would like.  Some of us struggle with our weight.  Here are some tips from our buyers on “dressing slimmer.”

• Although this sounds obvious, make sure you wear clothes that fit well.  Both clothes that are too tight and those that are too loose make you look heavier than you really are.  If you can’t find that perfect fit, buy larger and have a tailor alter the items to fit you perfectly (by the way, a good tailor is worth his/her weight in gold).
• Dark colors are typically more slimming than bright ones.  A great fitting dark suit is the perfect item for the man looking to dress slimmer (with or without a tie).  Avoid outfits where contrasting colors meet at the feature you are trying to de-emphasize.  Even if monochrome is not for you, a pair of charcoal trousers with a black shirt or knit will do the trick. 
• Avoid bold patterns, which always make you look bigger than you are.  Pinstripes, on the other hand, are always slimming.
• A three button single breasted blazer or suit coat will help elongate your look.  A ventless jacket works best if your posterior is not your best feature.
• Wear pleated, rather than flat front trousers.  Flat fronts draw unwanted attention to the mid-section.  Also, make certain that your trousers aren’t too short.  Tell your tailor to err on the long side if necessary.
• If you possess a round face, wear dress shirts with long, straight collars, which will de-emphasize that feature.
• V-neck sweaters and shirts draw attention away from the mid-section.
• Avoid bulky fabrics whenever possible.  Dark colors and light fabrics is a good rule of thumb if you are trying to dress slimmer.
• If you want to brighten up your look, add some color with a tie or pocket square.

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By Benn, May 25, 2010 3:00 am

“Business Casual” sounds like such a simple concept, but the reality is that both employers and employees struggle mightily with dressing in a business casual environment.  Here are ten tips from the Paul Fredrick buying team on putting together a wardrobe for the business casual workplace:

1)      Always keep in mind that “business casual” and “golf” are two separate concepts.  Leave the golf wear in the clubhouse.

2)      You cannot go wrong with wool trousers at the office. From tropical weight wool in the summer, to flannel in the winter, to gabardines in between, wool is the perfect fabric for trousers in the workplace.

3)      When it gets really warm, try linen or silk trousers.  Both are dressy enough for the office and will keep you cool to boot.

4)      The best part of business casual is the large number of shirt options.  Wear a favorite dress shirt (with or without a tie), a sport shirt for a more colorful look, or a knit sweater when it is very cold (long sleeve merino wool) or very hot (short sleeve spun silk).

5)      Invest in a couple sport coats – they are very versatile.  Choose one in the black/grey family and one in shades of tan/brown.  Add a navy blazer and you are set for any occasion.  Like trousers, sport coats are available in a variety of wool weights appropriate for all types of weather. 

6)      Sweaters and vests are both great business casual layering pieces, great for spring and fall when temperatures may vary greatly during the day.

7)      Make sure your shoes are in synch with the rest of your outfit.  Leave the topsiders and tennis shoes at the country club.

8)      Solid trousers provide the most versatility in any business casual wardrobe.  Pair them with patterned dress shirts or sport shirts to make your color statement.

9)      One exception to the above – buy a pair of patterned trousers that you absolutely must have, and match it with a solid knit shirt.

10)   Finally, don’t be shy about dressing up sometimes, even in a business casual environment.  There is nothing wrong with being the best dressed guy in the place!

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By Benn, February 2, 2010 9:29 am

The rest of your outfit can look like a million bucks, but all can be for naught with a pair of cheap shoes. Good shoes will last for years. And, things like old world craftsmanship and Italian leather make a difference you can not only see, but also feel. Our footwear is designed with three things in mind: comfort, style and value. The finest material and hand-finished detail, ensure the highest level of quality. Quality equals comfort. While we are all for classic, updated detail makes for a more distinctive statement while not compromising timeless appeal. And, finally, offering it to you at a price that is not only affordable but surprisingly affordable. Plus, we’ve got a diverse selection of matching belts so you can finish your look seamlessly.

Dress Shoes

The vast majority of dress or business shoes fall into one of two categories. First, oxfords are any lace-up that does not go above the ankle. Probably the two most common oxfords are cap toe and wing tip, which simply refers to the way the shoe is finished around the toe. Penny, tassel and monk strap is three common styles of the second category which is loafers or slip-ons. While considered somewhat less dressy, both oxfords and loafers are appropriate choices for business wear.

Classic Wear Guide

A couple simple rules of thumb when getting dressed:

• Black and burgundy are good with almost any black, navy or grey suit.
• Brown works well with tans and navy.
• Shine your shoes. A little polish goes a long way.
• Match your socks to your pants unless it is a lighter color. Then it is often better to match you socks to the color of your shoes.
• Your belt color should always match your shoes.
• Better shoes last longer. An investment that pays for itself over time.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 2:42 pm

The Four-in-Hand is a slightly asymmetrical and tight knot.  Considered the most versatile tie knot, it’s acceptable to use with any type collar, but best suited for a straight, tab or buttondown. View our post How to Tie a Tie: Four-in-Hand Knot.

The Windsor is a big and chunky tie knot.  Best when used with a wide spread collar shirt, perfect for a Windsor Spread or English Spread collar.  View our post  How to Tie a Tie: Windsor Knot.

The Half Windsor is a solid, balanced tie knot. It is a slightly smaller knot than the Windsor. Best when used with a spread collar shirt, perfect for a Windsor Spread or Park Avenue Spread collar. View our post How to Tie a Tie: Half Windsor Knot.

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By Allen, November 18, 2009 9:16 am

The most basic color matching involves selecting a tie to wear with a dark suit and a white dress shirt. It is difficult to go wrong with this combination and your main decision is whether to keep with subdued tones or go for a brighter look.

The same holds true for matching a fine gauge knit with a pair of dark trousers. If you are wearing a colored solid dress shirt, select a patterned tie that uses the dress shirt hue as a secondary color. Use the same logic if you are wearing a patterned pair of trousers (glen plaid, houndstooth, etc.). Select a knit or woven shirt that matches the secondary color in the trouser pattern.

Matching a patterned suit or sportcoat with a dress shirt and tie is more complex. A few options are acceptable. You can select a shirt that is a lighter shade of the primary suit color and match it with a tie that emphasizes the suit’s secondary tone. For example, if you are wearing a light brown sportcoat with a burgundy over bar, you might select an ecru dress shirt and match it with a small-patterned tie with burgundy as the primary color. Or, you can select a shirt color that emphasizes the burgundy in the sportcoat, and match it with a tie that has a light brown as the secondary hue.

As with most elements of business dressing, select color combinations that you are comfortable wearing.

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By Allen, November 16, 2009 2:21 pm

1. Invest in quality tailored clothing that will last. Buy conservative suits and basic trousers that won’t be out of style next season, and use fashion dress shirts and ties to personalize your fashion statement.

2. Find a good tailor and treat him/her well. Proper alterations on suits, trousers and sportcoats are important to your appearance.

3. Be a bit more adventurous when matching shirts and ties. A large patterned necktie will work very well with a small patterned dress shirt, and vice versa. For example, pair a bold paisley tie with a micro-check dress shirt.

4. Make certain that your shoes are shined and appropriate for the rest of your outfit. For example, don’t wear penny loafers with a suit, or cap toe dress shoes with chinos.

5. Make sure your accessories work together. Your belt should match your shoes and your socks should coordinate with your trousers.

6. Make yourself “perspiration proof.” Always wear an undershirt under your dress shirt, and carry a handkerchief to wipe perspiration from your hands or brow.

7. Purchase a small, fold-up umbrella and keep it in your briefcase at all times. Nothing takes the smartness out of a man’s appearance like an unexpected rain shower.

8. Unless you are in a profession where artistic flair is expected, always try to err on the side of dressing too conservatively.

9. Emulate (but do not copy) your boss, or other senior executives at your company, when deciding how to dress.

10. Never wear anything that makes you feel uncomfortable or not yourself.

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By Allen, November 11, 2009 10:45 am

Shoe colors for business traditionally range from black to burgundy to shades of brown and beige. It makes sense to stay within these guidelines, unless you are extremely confident that you can “pull off” a different color. Black is the most versatile color, since it complements a nice variety of suit and trouser colors.  Also remember to coordinate your shoe and belt color, as well as your trouser and sock color.

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By Allen, November 6, 2009 10:05 am

Some simple rules for coordinating your dress shirt with a tie, sportcoat, or suit.

1. Avoid patterns that are too similar.

2. Select complementary colors and patterns.

3. Don’t wear combinations that are drastically different. The patterns and colors should not compete with one another.

4. Match large patterns with small patterns or vice versa.

5. Don’t overdo one pattern or color.

The key is feeling comfortable wearing your ensemble. Many times there will be combinations that seem to fit the rules but do not look right together. Always use your own judgment to determine what works for you.