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By Benn, June 23, 2010 3:00 am

Finding the right suit can be both challenging and time consuming. Below we’ve focused on three major elements that separate one suit from another: Construction, Fabric, and Fit.
 
Construction
There are two methods of constructing a suit jacket. The first is called a canvas construction. Better suits use this kind of tailoring – a layer of canvas sewn into the jacket between the exterior cloth and lining that gives it shape, structure, and strength – shaping the suit from the start, and also having a memory for your shape. The second, fused construction, consists of the interlining adhering to the exterior fabric through a heating process – it is essentially glued.
 
Fabric
While suits can come in many different fabrications, most are made of wool.  Wools are weighted for the season. Generally, tropical weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 180-220) are worn in the warm weather months of Spring and Summer, mid weights (wools with gram weights of approximately 220-250) can be worn all year long, and wools greater than 250grams are heavier and best for the colder winter months.  Flannel finishes afford a softly brushed, almost matte appearance, and are often associated with  “Country Gentleman”  style.  We pride ourselves in scouring the globe to find the best quality wools, sourcing them at prices that allow us to pass the value on to you.
 
Fit
Most importantly, make sure your suit fits. Trousers should be hemmed to just hit your shoes. Too long can create a sloppy, lazy presentation; too little, and you are apt to be asked where the flood is. Jacket sleeve length should allow for about a quarter to a half an inch of shirt cuff to be seen. As a rule of thumb, jacket buttons should never pucker or crease when buttoned. If so, please go up a size. The bottom hem should align with your knuckles and be just enough to cover your back side.

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By Benn, May 18, 2010 3:00 am

Every business trip poses a series of challenges. This article will focus on one dilemma that is a part of every business trip – packing. In order to determine what to pack, check the weather forecast for your destination and determine what amenities your hotel(s) will provide.

Before you do any actual packing, we strongly suggest a list. Take into consideration the length of your trip, the business attire needed, the amount of free time available for non-business activities and personal preferences for recreational items and sleep wear. Once a list is made, select an area where you can lay out what will be packed, and check them off your list.

Keep in mind the following with regards to the business wear items. Shoes are heavy, so try to minimize the number of shoes you bring. Select suits or trousers that require only one shoe color. Additionally, comfortable shoes that can be dressed up or down, you will further reduce your shoe requirements.

Likewise, clothing that can be worn for both business and casual activities will help keep your packing requirements to a minimum. If your agenda requires business casual clothing, wool trousers and fine gauge knits such as mock turtlenecks and polos are quite versatile. If a shirt and tie is required for your business meetings, select a few buttondown collar woven shirts. These shirts can also be worn as casual items for leisure activities. Non-Iron dress shirts and performance blazers are particularly appropriate for business travel. Bring two neckties for each shirt packed, since ties are lightweight and can vary your look from meeting to meeting.

Make certain, before packing, that all clothing is clean and pressed. Unless you are utilizing a garment bag, we suggest that all items be packed folded and tightly rolled. Alternatively, folded dress shirts may be packed in the packaging used by your laundry service. Fold and roll all your garments before selecting a suitcase. Once you have done so, choose a suitcase that will be tightly packed when you are finished. The less room items have to move around, the less likely they are to wrinkle in transit. Invest in a travel steamer. This inexpensive item can prove to be extremely valuable if the need arises to remove wrinkles. We also strongly recommend that all toiletries be sealed in plastic bags or a waterproof carrying case before they are packed.

Whether or not you check your bags, always pack a carry-on piece with essential items, in case your luggage is temporarily misplaced. At a minimum, include underwear, socks and a clean shirt. Additionally, make certain that you have identification tags on all of your bags, including carry-on pieces. Once you arrive at the hotel, take the time to properly unpack and store all garments in dressers or closets.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 1:38 pm

The Four-in-Hand is considered the most versatile tie knot.  Acceptable when used with any type collar, but best suited for a straight, tab or buttondown.

Use the simple instructions below to tie a Four-in-Hand knot.

Step One: Start with the wide end of the tie on your right, extended about 12 inches below narrow end.	Step Two: Cross the wide end over the narrow, then again under the narrow.	Step Three: Continue around, passing the wide end across in front of the narrow once more.
Step Four: Pass the wide end under the knot and up through the loop between the knot and your neck.	Step Five: Hold the front of the knot open slightly with your index finger to create a loop in the knot. Pass the wide end down through the knot in the loop that you’ve just created in front.	Step Six: Remove your finger and tighten the knot carefully. Draw the knot tight by holding the narrow end of the tie and sliding the knot up snug to your collar.

Other Knots:
Click here for Windsor.
Click here for Half Windsor.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 1:38 pm

The Windsor is a big and chunky tie knot. Larger than the Half Windsor. Best when used with a wide spread collar shirt, perfect for a Windsor Spread or English Spread collar.

Use the simple instructions below to tie a Windsor knot.

(when looking in a mirror)

Other Knots:
Click here for Half Windsor.
Click here for Four-in-Hand.

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By Scott, January 18, 2010 1:37 pm

The Half Windsor is a solid, balanced tie knot. Slightly smaller than the Windsor. Best when used with a spread collar shirt, perfect for a Windsor Spread or Park Avenue Spread collar.

Use the simple instructions below to tie a Half Windsor knot.

(when looking in a mirror)

Other Knots:
Click here for Windsor.
Click here for Four-in-Hand.